Nickel and Chrome Plating info and pricing

The below is information to Nickel or Chrome plate your parts.

How this works -

Look at the pricing below. It goes over most most paintball gun parts. Make sure the turn around time we have is ok with you. If all looks good, email chris@pootypaintball.com with what you have. Are we or you taking it apart? Once we double check your part count we will email back our paypal and address for your parts. Ship in your parts. Please be patient and only contact us for a update after our turn around time is up. We simply wont have any info for you until your project is done. There is no process updates. Once your project is done, we will post pictures (maybe a video) on our IG or facebook account with your first name in the post. And ship it back to you the next day Priority mail with no signature unless you request a signature.

Examples of Nickel and Chrome

Please visit our Facebook or Instagram pages for lots of pictures and videos. Every single job we have ever done will be posted there. Pooty Paintball and anodizing will be the search name

PRICING

Each Part is priced alone. If your regulator comes apart in 2 parts, It’s 2 parts. Every part must be racked alone and not attached to anything else.

Nickel / Chrome will need a gloss finish to start with. The below pricing includes polishing of your parts. If your parts have damage now, you will still have damage to them after. Polishing of your parts is done to remove your dust finish or clean up your gloss finish. In most cases small marks and damage will go away from polishing. But polishing can only do so much. Sanding down of the metal before polishing will need to be done to the metal at a extra cost if you request us to fix that damage.

What is Nickel platting?

Its not anodizing. Its Nickel metal that is Electrically applied to the metal.

What is Chrome platting?

Also not anodizing. But a thin clear coat that goes on top of nickel platting that makes the finish more durable. Chrome is not the mirror finish you see. But a very faint bluish clear coat.

We have a $300 minimum for any work.

The below pricing is for Nickel.

Barrel Backs (freak back as an example) $60
Barrel Tips / 14 inch (freak tip as an example) $70
Barrel Tips / 16 inch (freak tip as an example) $80
One Piece 14 inch barrel $120
Body / Spool Valve (Eclipse CS3 body as an example) $130
Luxe body $200
Body / Poppet (LV2 as an example) $155
Trigger frame (Eclipse CS3 as an example) $130
Small parts (like triggers, feednecks, levers, reg parts, ASA’s, and small stuff under 3 inches) $30 per part

If you have parts that are not like the above, email chris@pootypaintball.com with a picture of what you have.

The below pricing is for Chrome.

Barrel Backs (freak back as an example) $70
Barrel Tips / 14 inch (freak tip as an example) $80
Barrel Tips / 16 inch (freak tip as an example) $90
One Piece 14 inch barrel $135
Body / Spool Valve (Eclipse CS3 body as an example) $190
Luxe body $250
Body / Poppet (LV2 as an example) $210
Trigger frame (Eclipse CS3 as an example) $180
Small parts (like triggers, feednecks, levers, reg parts, ASA’s, and small stuff under 3 inches) $40 per part

If you have parts that are not like the above, email chris@pootypaintball.com with a picture of what you have.

What can be Platted

Aluminum for now. Steel we are working on. We can work with anodized parts and raw parts. If your parts are powder coated, painted or coated with anything besides anodizing we may not be able to strip that off.

TURNAROUND TIMES

Estimated turnaround time will be based on workload. A clearer estimated time can be provided once you notify us that you are ready to ship your gun/parts to us. Update on your project cannot be provided until your turnaround time nears. There is NO RUSH work as we would like to provide you with the best possible outcome. Average turn around time is 3-5 weeks. But give yourself more time if things run longer.

If you will be taking your gun apart, we will need:

All internal parts removed from your gun/parts; Screws, o-rings, plastics, anything!
One picture of all your parts fully stripped down and not attached to any other part.
Trigger bearings are the only parts you may leave alone if you cannot punch them out.
Damage to magnets is to be expected due to the multi-stage process. We can silicone over magnets or just pull them out if they can be. Magnets can be replaced if they are missing or damaged after the finishing process is complete.

If you need us to take your gun apart

Email over what gun you have or a picture. Some guns are cheaper to take apart then others. We don't take apart some guns.

Return shipping

If you are in the USA, priority mail return is free for complete guns. Small parts will ship first class mail. If you are out of the USA, we will send you return shipping options and cost. You can pay this once it is boxed up and ready to be shipped back. We will then provide you with tracking information via email and your gun/parts will be shipped out the following day. We don't ship with a signature required. If you need one, you will need to request this.

How to care for your parts - MUST READ!

Since Aurora is a process that adds metal to your gun, Care for your parts needs to be more detailed over a anodized finish. if you follow the below care info you won't have any issues and will have a long lasting finish.

Always keep your finish dry, NEVER leave any liquids on the parts for a long period of time. A damp clean microfiber with water is the best for cleaning. Using a spray bottle with water or simply dunk your barrels into water will remove any paint or dirt. Its a very good idea to remove any parts that can trap unseen paint/moisture and clean them (eye covers, rubber, etc, etc). Its all about keeping moisture off the finish. Storing your parts wet can be very damaging.
Clean all barrel, ASA and body threads as well.
Always make sure anything that screws into something is clean before screwing it in. Mostly, ASA's, Barrel threads, body to barrel threads and VERY important is your tank threads. Dirty tank threads will cause the platting to crack loose in your ASA and bind your reg to your ASA!
Never over tighten anything that threads in. Just light hand tightening. Its a good idea to use orings on the back of any barrel back. Your goal is to make sure you don't crack off any thread platting that will lead to thread on thread binding. We only see this happen with dirty threads or over pressure.
Keep your finish away from damage. This is a no brainer... If you play snake or plan to dive gun first... Expect more damage of course!

GENERAL LIABILITY INFORMATION

All the finishes in this section are a multi-stage process. It is not anodizing but more of a platting put on the metal. Think of it as a colorful Chrome. All these finishes will require special care, like chrome plated rims or a chrome car bumper. Your parts life span will depend on your care. Taking care of your finish is essential in maintaining its integrity and is your responsibility.

The Aurora finish has a multicolor rainbow effect, with a unique and incomparable finish. Expect to see blues and purples as the main coloring and aspects of other shades of colors. However, due to the process, the color outcome of your gun/parts will vary. We cannot guarantee certain color outcomes. You will see the Aurora finish color shift according to the light. Like chrome, the Aurora finish can chip with hard impacts. Consistent care is key! We have seen 35 year old Aurora coated parts still looking great.

24 Karat gold is a Nickel finish that has a real 24 karat real gold layer applied on top of the nickel base finish.

We have yet to see threading or fitment issues. Attention is paid during each step of the process, making sure that your gun/parts will work as they should.

All finishes requires a multi-stage process and minor flaws are to be expected, such as markings from the racking process. We will do our best to rack parts on less visible areas. However, some parts require certain racking placement and this we cannot help. Your finish will never be as predictable or perfect as anodizing, but once you see the finish in person...it is unreal!

--- Note ---

We take no Liability for damage that has been done to your finish once it leaves our hands. It is your responsibility to make sure you keep your parts safe. By following the above care info you will be in good shape.

If you play hard and expect your finish to see abuse – This is not for you.